Month: February 2017

Visiting Ibirapuera Park in São Paulo & an Argentinian restaurant

November 18, 2016

After our visit to MAC-USP, Dale and I crossed the bridge over the busy thoroughfares below, to reach Ibirapuera Park and more art museums!

There was something called the Bienal – the 32nd biannual art exposition – housed in one of the park’s buildings, very near the ramp that extended over the streets to MAC-USP on the other side.

There was a lot of really interesting artwork on display, much of it inspired by Brazil’s indigenous peoples and natural environment.  To the right of the entrance, a lot of tall stalks painted in natural colors evoked a forest.

20161118_130005

20161118_130144In the middle of that part of the hall was a replica of an indigenous house – an oval “mud” hut with a roof made of thatched palm leaves.

20161118_130207 Stepping inside, we had to duck, for the doorway was too low for most adults.  In the middle of the hut was a circular raised pit, with four carvings of animals representative of native species, including a turtle and a tamanduá (anteater).

20161118_130344

20161118_130359Against the curved walls were pieces by native artists which I found fascinating, beautiful renditions of Brazilian folk art!

20161118_130438

This kind of boat is used by fishermen and is called a jangada.

20161118_130447

These curved hats are typical of the leather hats worn by cowboys in the Northeast. A general term for these men is cangaceiros.

20161118_130513

Hints of myth and religion…

20161118_130530

Bumba-meu-bói costume – in the Northeast during carnaval (known in the U.S. as Mardi Gras) two people get into these bull costumes, one in front, one in back, and parade in the street. It’s a type of dance performed with typical music of the sertão – the rural arid interior of Northeast Brazil.

20161118_130619I could have lingered there longer, but Dale had taken a panoramic video and was now beckoning me to go.  He was getting hungry and where was the restaurant that signs promised?

We looked at a few other exhibits while searching for the restaurant,  including a circle of potted plants and their role in planting and harvesting.

20161118_131630

20161118_131649

20161118_131703We ended up having to walk completely around the outside of the building to find the café – not really a restaurant.  Perhaps the restaurant was closed.

We entered the café from a rear entrance and down a hall covered with advertising posters from previous years’ biennials. With the limited menu, we decided to have just a snack – I ordered us two quiches and two Guaraná Zeros. (Guaraná is a Brazilian soft drink made with the guaraná, a type of berry. It is tangy and refreshing! But we are watching our diet, so we ordered the “Zeros” – meaning no sugar!)

There was another art museum (MAM) in the park but instead of spending time there,

brazil-2016c-279
Facade of MAM (Museum of Modern Art)

we headed across the park to the Afro Brasil museum, but when we approached the entrance we saw a crowd of several school groups lingering outside – it would be crowded and nosiy, so we decided not to go in.

While we had been looking for that museum, we had passed a couple of statues, some modern sculptures,

132_3815

Ibirapuera Park

132_3817

132_3820and a low white domed building with round whited-out windows – it looked like an alien spaceship! In fact, we think it was the planetarium or possibly the “Oca” listed on the map, which also contained some art on display.  We did not go in.

I think this is the planetarium at Ibirapuera Park.

Interesting trees
pândano tree

Walking away from the Afro Brasil museum, we followed main paths that circled the park, where lots of kids on bicycles passed us in noisy groups – including three girls who passed us several times; Dale thought they were lost but I laughed and said they didn’t act like they were lost – they were just having a good time riding back and forth!

Mural behind palm and flowering trees
Mural on another building (unused, it looked like- there were abandoned shopping carts alongside it) behind palm and flowering trees

We passed the edge of a lake and in spite of the uneven path and some garbage floating in the water near the shore, it was peaceful there. I stepped off the path to stand on the bank.

132_3829

We stepped off the trail to stand on the bank, where I took this picture.

But we returned to the main path with its walkers, bicyclists and skateboarders.  There was a restroom, so we each went into our respective sides.  There was a slight odor and the toilets didn’t have seats – I had to gingerly lower my bottom onto the rim – and once there, realized there was no toilet paper!

Colorful bathroom walls
Although stinky and deteriorating, the restrooms were colorfully painted.

Good thing I had packages of Kleenex – I threw the tissue into the little wastebasket next to the toilet. Ugh!  Leaving the stall, I went to wash my hands and observed some girls coming in, who pulled paper out of a large round dispenser.  Each of them tore off a piece which they took with them into the stalls.  So that was the toilet paper! I looked around for something to dry my hands on and saw an employee with thick packets of paper towels loading them into the paper towel dispenser.  I murmured something vague as I grabbed one off the top of the pile before she closed the dispenser.

TIP:  If you are visiting Ibirapuera Park, DON’T use these outdoor johns – the restrooms inside exhibit buildings are cleaner!!

132_3834
Exercise station – these are scattered throughout the park.
You find artwork in the most unexpected places!
We found art in the most unexpected places!

More public art

My legs were getting tired so we sat down on a bench to rest.  Dale pointed to one of the paved paths which seemed to lead into a dark area, but he was convinced we should take that route to get back to the bridge.  I was opposed at first, saying it was dangerous but then I saw a couple of people walking and bikes whizzing in and out.  He was right – taking that route led us to Portão 4 where we exited the park and walked over the bridge over the busy thoroughfares.

20161118_150019

We went back to the apartment in Vila Mariana and rested, and decided where to go for dinner.  I found an Argentinian restaurant, Dr. Tche Parilla de la Villa, that was not too far away, so we went there around 7 pm.  Hardly any customers were there – but for Brazilians, it was fairly early.  I highly recommend this restaurant – it was excellent!

restaurante_dr-tche-la-parrilla-de-la-villa_vila-mariana_foto-1

On the menu were a variety of cuts of beef – I knew a couple of them, but not all.  The waiter told us one order was enough for two, so we ordered bife de chorizo which, contrary to what the name implies in Spanish, has nothing to do with sausage.  It was, in fact, a very tender and lean cut of beef, which I ordered medium but for me it could have been cooked just a tad longer.

Still, it was excellent and came with chimichurri sauce (picture on the right above) and pico de gallo. The sauces came first, along with the bread, so I heaped them on the rolls first.  I had ordered suflê de batata, which I thought would be something like mashed potatoes but in fact were irregularly elongated potato puffs, hollow inside.  The meal also came with broccoli which had been marinated in garlic and seasoned.  We each had a tropical caipirinha (Dale)/caipiroska (me).

The waiter was very solicitous, the service was great.  We had plenty of leftovers which we brought back to the apartment and put into our little refrigerator.

(Note: All pictures of the restaurant were downloaded from Google Images.)

Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge: Way Up There

For Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge, I looked up pictures that I took looking up! Here are the results:

20160922_100221
Passageway between two tall buildings: Chicago, Illinois
20160922_121219
I don’t know the name of this building in Chicago, but I like its design.
132_3843
Catedral da Sé, São Paulo, Brazil
132_3848
One of the statues on the facade of Catedral da Sé, São Paulo
20161122_115722
Stairs leading up, modern building in São Paulo
Clock tower at Luz station
Clock tower, Luz Station, São Paulo

Last but not least, here is my favorite of all! I was fascinated by a species of pine tree found only in the region around the state of Paraná, Brazil. Its scientific name is araucaria but people there call it pinheiro paranaense (pine tree of Paraná). The native people of this region, a tribe of the Tupi-Guaraní, called it curi, which is how Curitiba got its name!

Towering araucaria against a darkening sky
Towering araucaria against a darkening sky, Curitiba, PR, Brazil

WPC: A Good Match

For this week’s Weekly Photo Challenge, these are some good pairings or matches that I have photographed. I have grouped them into different types of matches.

Color matches

dscn8904
2 Red Chairs and Kayak (Wisconsin, 2014)
20150202_175931
Yellow Full Moon and Windows (Des Plaines, IL 2015)

Couples/love matches

a pair of loons! They have been getting so close to the dock.
2 Loons on Lake (Wisconsin, 2014)

2 Cakes for a 50th Wedding Anniversary (Des Plaines, July 2015)

Bride & groom gaze at each other with love.
Sandy and Steve’s Wedding: Love Forever (Wheaton, IL 2014)
imag2746_1
Cousins All Dressed Up at the Wedding Reception (Wheaton, 2014)

Artistic harmony match

Dwarf Japanese Juniper
Miniature Bonsai Trees (Chicago Botanic Garden, 2015)

Some things just go together matches

imag2505_burst001_1
Little Boys and Fireworks (Wisconsin, 2014)
imag2490
Katy and Double Fudge Ice Cream (Minocqua, WI 2014)
imag0778
Dale Fishing in the Quiet of Sunset (Wisconsin, 2013)

Thursday Doors: Helio Oiticica

20170221_134458
Before building full sized structures that one could enter, Oiticica created 3D works such as this, which hangs from the ceiling.

For Norm’s Thursday Doors feature this week, I am contributing something somewhat different. On Tuesday, my husband and I visited the Chicago Art Institute. I was especially interested in a special exhibit by Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica (1937-1980). Oiticica was born in Rio de Janeiro and during his 25-year career he created works to appeal to all the senses. Rather than paintings on a flat surface, his work featured structures that you can walk in, around, and on, to experience the space in a variety of ways.

20170221_134518
Dale stands next to the entrance to a small “bolide” – a 3D structure that is meant to be experienced in a variety of ways. We were not allowed to go into this one, however.
20170221_140201
Looks like a comfy mattress inside!

To fully appreciate “Tropicália” or “Eden” as this particular installation is called, you could take your shoes and socks off and walk around on the sandy surface – the same feeling you get when walking on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro. There were other surfaces too – gravel (hard on bare feet!), a bed of leaves, water, and more.

20170221_140638
This structure was in a large work entitled “Eden”, which combined different elements of the Brazilian tropics – sand, plants, parrots, water, music and poetry.

Other “rooms” to play in:

Partial views of the installation “Eden”:

20170221_135915
This structure with walls of cloth could be explored inside. It is meant to evoke the makeshift houses of the favelas, shantytowns.
20170221_135854

The doorway:

20170221_140902

20170221_140208
Some homeless people in Brazil put up tents in parks, while others use tents to explore their country on the cheap. This tent in the “Tropicalia” installation contained headphones through which you heard a song being sung by the Brazilian singer Gal Costa.
20170221_141531
Yes, there were large green and yellow parrots too!

Another installation, called “Filter Project” had plastic colored sheeting at the entryways, so that what you saw was filtered through those colors. They represent the bright colors of the Brazilian urban landscape.  During Brazil’s military dictatorship, Oiticica spent several years living in New York. He created “Filter Project” in New York in 1972, for an exposition in Rio de Janeiro. This was the height of the dictatorship and the project is also an expression of his anger and concern for his country.

20170221_142916

While many of the installations are replicas, the one below is an original. It, too, is meant to be explored, but we could not go inside because the museum is making some adjustments to make sure it is strong enough to experience safely.

20170221_143709

The artist in New York in the 1960s:

20170221_142256

 

 

 

São Paulo’s art museums: MAC-USP

The city of São Paulo has a huge number of art museums and art installations. In part this is because Brazil has many artists of all types. The first art museum we visited was MAC-USP (Museum of Contemporary Art – University of São Paulo), adjacent to Ibirapuera Park in the Vila Mariana district.

On November 18, 2016 we walked from our lodgings to Ibirapuera Park, and stopped to have a look at MAC-USP on the way.  The museum has several stories, and we had to choose only two or three exhibits to visit, but there is much more to this museum than I cover here.

The museum was free and I picked up an arts map, which later turned out to be very useful for getting our bearings in the park as well as on other days.  Dale had to leave his backpack in the coat-bag check, and water wasn’t allowed either.  So we went through the museum without our water bottles and cameras.  We took pictures without flash, which was allowed, with our cell phones.

There were some interesting sculptures on the ground floor,

Maria Martins (1900-1973),
Maria Martins (Brazilian, 1900-1973); “A Soma dos Nossos Dias” (The Sum of Our Days) 1954/55
Angelo Venosa, Untitled 1987; fiberglass
Angelo Venosa, “Untitled”, 1987; fiberglass
Grande Cavalo (1951) by Marino Marini; bronze
Marino Marini (Italian, 1901-1980); “Grande Cavalo” (Large Horse) 1951; bronze

including one we were allowed to touch: a giant cat!  It is soft to the touch (which we were allowed to do) and supposedly also purrs, although we didn’t hear it!

20161118_113717
Nina Pandolfo, “Um Amor sem Igual” (A Love without Equal), 2011

On the 4th floor, we saw an exhibit was of modern Latin American artists, entitled Vizinhos Distantes (Distant Neighbors). Many of these contained political and social commentary. Much of Latin America was ruled by right-wing dictatorships in the 1960s and 1970s.

Sergio Meirana,
Sergio Meirana (Uruguay, 1966- ), “Superficie da Memoria” (Surface of Memory), 2008
Leon Ferrari,
Leon Ferrari (Argentina, 1920-2013), “Releitura da Biblia” (Rereading the Bible), 1986/87
Leon Ferrari (B.A., Argentina 1920-2013),
Leon Ferrari, “Autopista do Sul” (Southern Expressway), 1981
Alfredo Portillos,
Alfredo Portillos, “Caixas com Sabonetes para Classes Sociais Distintas” (Boxes of soap for different social classes), 1975

The other exhibit we visited on the 4th floor was called A Casa, inspired by the Vinicius de Moraes poem and song, which I immediately began singing to myself:

20161118_114203Era uma casa
Muito engraçada
Não tinha teto
Não tinha nada.

 Ninguém podia entrar nela, não
Porque a casa não tinha chão
Ninguém podia dormir na rede
Porque a casa não tinha parede
Ninguem podia fazer xi-xi
Porque pinico não tinha ali.

Mas era feita com muito esmero
Na Rua dos Bobos, No. 0
Mas era feita com muito esmero
Na Rua dos Bobos, No. 0

(English rough translation: There was a very funny house/It had no roof or anything/No one could go inside because the house had no floor/No one could sleep in a hammock/Because there were no walls/No one could go pee-pee/Because there was no toilet./But it was made with a lot of care/On Fools Street, No. 0).

This exhibit displayed artistic works having to do with the home.

20161118_114524
Alexander Calder, “Grande Mobile Branco” (Large White Mobile), 1948; and Jose Carratu “A Mala” (The Suitcase), 1986/87
Alex Vallauri, Untitled, 1985
Alex Vallauri, “Untitled”, 1985

20161118_114509

20161118_114255

Alex Flemming, Cordeiro de Deus 1991
Alex Flemming, “Cordeiro de Deus” (Lamb of God), 1991
Flavio Cerqueira (Brazilian, 1983- ), “Foi assim que me ensinaram” (That’s how I was taught), 2011
Leda Catunda, Onca pintada No. 1 1984
Leda Catunda (Brazilian, 1961-), “Onca pintada no. 1” (Jaguar No. 1), 1984; acrylic on blanket

Finally, we went up to the roof where we had a panoramic view of the city. What impressed me most was the unbroken line of skyscrapers in every direction – conveying the immensity of this city!

20161118_122002

20161118_122210

20161118_122410

My husband made this video – but turn down the volume because there’s a very irritating background sound, probably due to the wind up there!

 

São Paulo: Public art in Vila Mariana

São Paulo, November 18, 2016

Our plan for today was to walk to Ibirapuera Park and I asked our host how to get there.  He described it to me.  Leaving the building, you turn left and go until you get to a curve – I brought up a map on my phone GPS.  There are a series of viaducts and ramps but you can keep going – there’s a sidewalk and at some point a pedestrian bridge crosses over the highways.

We set out armed with this info, but when we came to the curve, we took the right fork which took us into some other streets, which happened to have some beautiful public art.

20161118_110738
These dalmations were sitting on a ledge outside a building.

In a courtyard outside a private museum:

Wall art:

20161118_112328

20161118_112359

20161118_112413

20161118_11244020161118_112504

20161118_112517

Tree art:

20161118_112538

Looking at the GPS map, I figured out a way to get back onto the main street and it was actually good because we avoided most of the tangle of busy streets.

Under a viaduct:

20161118_112751
On the other side of the viaduct post (not art – it’s where a homeless person apparently camps out):Homeless person's possessions

Emerging onto Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, we saw the MAC-USP (Museum of Contemporary Art of the University of São Paulo) building designed by Oscar Niemeyer up ahead – a functional sort of building, not like his more avant-garde structures.

20161118_113027.jpg

Next: MAC-USP