December 31, 2018
Kom Ombo Temple is probably my favorite of all the ancient Egyptian sites I saw on this trip. It has several interesting features that make it unique.
About 30 miles north of the city of Aswan, Kom Ombo is located in a region that has a large Nubian community that was resettled here after the construction of the Aswan High Dam, which flooded the area they had come from originally. I will write more about the Nubians in a future post.
The town of Kom Ombo has grown considerably in the last 35 years since its founding. It was an important town in ancient times because it was located at a convergence of trade routes to the Nile Valley, the Red Sea, and Nubia.
The Temple of Kom Ombo is a double temple, to worship the gods Sobek (the crocodile god) and Horus (the falcon god). Both these gods were depicted, as Egyptian gods often were, as either an animal or a person with the animal’s head.
Two images of Horus (with falcon heads) anoint the king (middle) by pouring water on his head; Sobek (with crocodile head) stands behind them on the left.
Kom Ombo Temple was built during the Ptolemaic era, between the 2nd century BCE and the 1st century CE. All the remains of the temple date to that period and later, although there has been evidence found of earlier structures, most notably an 18th Dynasty gateway.
The temple is called a “double temple” because it has two of almost everything, which allowed the priests to conduct equal worship rituals for two gods simultaneously. The southern part of the temple is dedicated to Sobek, the northern part to Horus. In addition, there is a small shrine dedicated to the goddess Hathor.
Reliefs on outer walls
Crocodiles, sacred to Sobek, were worshipped here at Kom Ombo and were regarded as semi-divine. They were fed the finest foods, provided with golden earrings, and were even given manicures to gild their nails! Sacred crocodiles, when they were alive, were kept in the northwestern part of the temple. There is now a crocodile museum (included in the entrance ticket) adjacent to the temple where crocodile mummies and other artifacts are on display. We went there after our tour of the temple, but it was quite dark inside and we were not allowed to take photos anyway. However, here is one from a professional photographer.
Crocodile mummies in the Crocodile Museum
The double entrance opens onto a large courtyard, the only shared space inside the temple’s boundaries. The entrance was oriented toward the river, facing roughly west.
There are two doorways from the courtyard to the outer hypostyle (columned) halls, inner hypostyle halls,
a series of offering halls, and twin sanctuaries, for Horus on the left and Sobek on the right.
Sobek with feathered headdress, holding a staff in his left hand and an ankh in his right hand.
Sanctuary entrance
Mohamed showed us a calendar on the southwest wall of the Offering Hall, the first one we had seen.
The goddess Hathor (with cow horns & a sun disk on her head) and the falcon god Horus (wearing the white crown)
Colorful paintings of the winged vulture on the bottom of the lintel over a doorway
Over an adjacent doorway is the symbol of two cobras on either side of a sun disk, with spread wings, like this one.
Detailed relief of Sobek
Lovely dual relief, with the pharaoh offering jugs of water and lotus flowers. The confusing thing about this image is that the pharaoh is both female (with a breast) and a male (beard symbolic of the pharaoh). A female monarch perhaps? I don’t know…
Another interesting feature is on the back wall of the outer enclosure – carvings of surgical instruments. Surgical tools found at archaeological sites match those in these carvings – quite amazing!
Another common theme was food, either being offered to the gods by the pharaoh or depicted upon a table.
In this relief, water is being poured onto the food, representing the nourishment of food crops by rain and the river.
On this column, the pharaoh of all Egypt (he is wearing the double crown) offers food to Horus.
Some of the reliefs show deep carving, especially the largest figures which cover an entire wall. This is the foot of Horus…
…who is holding a staff and an ankh.
Behind him is a carving of Hathor, also holding a staff and an ankh.
Some of the feet show details of the toes, such as this one of Hathor’s foot – she has very long toes!
This temple was also known for being a place of healing. High up on a wall is a small doorway with a carved ear on either side. These “listening ears” are where people could go to tell the gods about their medical problems in hopes of healing.
Throughout the temple were reliefs amazing in their artistry and imagination.
This bas relief is an interesting one, containing several figures. In the center stands the king, surrounded by familiar gods. To the left are Hathor and Thoth (ibis-headed god); to the right are a lion and two images of Horus. The lion was a symbol of strength and mastery of the natural world when depicted alongside the king. This shows that the lion/pharaoh is the guardian of order, or Ma’at, which was an important concept for the ancient Egyptians. Some gods also assimilated leonine aspects, such as Horus.
Horus assimilated the god Tjel (a feline god), giving a lion image to a god almost always depicted as a falcon. That seems to be the symbolism of this remarkable image, which shows both the lion’s head and the falcon’s wings in motion. Right underneath the lion with wings is Horus in his true nature as a falcon.
The lion is often depicted as female, such as in this relief. This female feline goddess was eventually incorporated into a domestic cat goddess, Bastet.
Enjoy these additional photos of this fascinating and beautiful temple!!
Sources: Symbolism of the Lion in Ancient Egypt by Michael Fassbender
The Temple of Kom Ombo on website Ancient Egypt Online. In this article,
Horus and Sobek are said to be in conflict, which is why the temple had to
separate them. I had not found this idea of conflict in any other source.
Kom Ombo, Wikipedia.
Fodor’s Egypt, 2009 edition
My own notes from information given to us by our guide
The Temple of Horemheb is small and not well-known.
There is an epigraphic survey project going on at Gebel Silsila by a team of archaeologists studying inscriptions, under the auspices of Lund University in Sweden.
That night, back on the Aida, we were enjoying a delicious dinner when several crew members appeared, playing instruments and singing! The captain danced with a couple of the women in our group.
Sayeed doesn’t own any of the banana plantations on the island, but we stood among the banana plants for awhile, exchanging information on how bananas grow, how Americans get their bananas, the use of pesticides, natural vs chemical fertilizers, and genetic engineering done by large agricultural interests in the U.S. He and his nephew who accompanied him seemed very interested in the information we gave them.
We arrived at the temple where Mohamed bought us tickets.
The bottoms of the columns, above the bases, are carved with leaves of the type found at the bases of various plants.
Colors were visible in some places, especially on ceilings and lintels.
By the time we went down to breakfast, it was almost 9:00 a.m. and the ballooners were just returning. They reported that it was a wonderful ride -very scenic with clear skies.
The temple is remarkably well preserved, and is one of the few of ancient Egyptian temples that retains a roof and various eras of construction are evident. The walls are covered with well-preserved images of kings, gods and ancient Egyptian daily life.
In the main hall there are four massive rows of columns, which retain some of their ancient colors to the present day.
Inside the corners are two hymns to Khnum: a morning hymn to awaken Khnum in his temple, and a hymn of creation, proclaiming him the creator of all. These hymns extensively use hieroglyphics of crocodiles and rams. The inscriptions on the columns are texts about different festivals held at the temple throughout the year.
especially, dress in black.
To get to the tombs, there were trams shuttling groups of people back and forth.
We were only allowed to take photos inside the tombs if we paid 300 EP (Egyptian pounds), the equivalent of about $15.00. Only one member of our tour group was willing to pay to take photos. Dale and I decided not to pay and refrain from taking photos, but in hindsight, I should have paid the 15 bucks – after all, it helps the Egyptian economy. Dale is too cheap, in general, to pay and he usually finds a way to take pictures anyway, which he did.
In the burial chamber, the god Nut is represented on the ceiling as part of another spiritual text, the Book of Night.
The next tomb we went in was that of Ramses VI, which was better preserved and contained a sarcophagus!
the tomb was opened to the public. The body, without its mummy wrappings, is now on display in his burial chamber. We had seen several of his coffins, as well as many funerary objects and his burial mask, at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
Wanderlust & Wonderment 
